When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.
The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the family completely astonished.
“I am totally shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.
In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.
It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.
It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.
Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.
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